A story of our time in Mozambique.
(By Cami)
I was attending an oral storying conference at the nearby missionary Bible translation compound, when I remembered I needed something in town. So at lunchtime, I popped on the motorcycle and bumped along the dirt path to the main road, which was also – you guessed it â dirt.
Near the entrance to our street was an area where people waited for the minibus taxis to fill up, going out to various locations out of town both near and far. Goats waited patiently under trees to be purchased and strapped to the top of said minibuses, and motorcycle taxis vied for local riders.
A crowd was gathered, blocking the street, which should have been my first sign to turn around and hightail it out of there, but curiosity got the best of me and I ended up on the edge of the crowd, seated on my bike. As one of two white ladies who rode bikes around the town, I always attracted lots of interest. Attention turned immediately to me, and the person at the center of the gathered crowd, a mentally ill man, immediately ran toward me and grabbed the purse from my arms.
In many African countries, people go out of their way to help strangers and be incredibly kind. Nampula was not such a place. You could never count on the goodwill of people on the street to save you. But it all boiled down to me, sitting on my motorbike and watching said man run around waving my purse in the air. The crowd watched me with interest to see what I would do. Now this was entertaining!
What could I do? If I got off the bike, someone was sure to grab it and take off, cheered on by the young men. I started crying out âHelp me! Help me!â The people around me really looked annoyed. Didnât I know this man had demons? But faced with the loss of my money and my identity document, I persisted. Finally two men approached the runner and retrieved my purse, handing it to me in disgust. I nicely said thank you, but they didnât wait to hear it as they had already stalked off in the other direction.
The crowd watched me ride away, their fun ruined until the next victim arrived. Carrying along the dusty road to the store (where I spent some time securing my bike with the heavy chain we carried), I was watched by yet another set of people as I went in and came out with my purchases. Normal. However, I made the fatal error of going back down the same road, figuring that Mr. Entertainment had moved on. But he was even closer to town, and as I slowed to avoid a large pothole, he jumped on the back of my bike! Now what? Insanity must have been catching that day, as I decided to try to dislodge him by riding straight up a steep embankment. I wasnât what youâd call an experienced rider, but with the help, surely, of patient angels and raging andrenaline, I went over the top, took a steep right, and somehow dumped the man clinging to me like a scared cat. Right into a soft pile of dirt.
In disbelief, I rode back to the conference and parked the bike and walked in. One of the organizers, a kind man, noticed I was disheveled and after I told him what had happened, he tried to guide me to a chair to recover. He knew how hard it was for foreign women in that town. So many times, I returned home humiliated or in tears because Iâd been verbally harassed by men who thought I must surely want to do nasty things with them, had street boys try to rob me, was cheated in the market, or made some terrible language mistake.
But I didnât need to sit down and be comforted. âYou donât understand,â I told him, elated. âI won!â